Many places around the U.S. like to call themselves the "home of the blues" or the 'birthplace of rock and roll." Sorry, but there's only one Memphis, Tennessee, and it answers to both. While great music is created all over the world, Memphis has given so much, we thought it deserved a page all its own, with the special Rhino touch. So without further baloney, here's Rhino's guide to Memphis. Print it out and use it for your own tour!
DOWNTOWN
Essential: Beale St: www.bealestreet.com. The historic main street of black Memphis in segregation days, Beale—where W.C. Handy did in fact write the first actual "blues" song on paper (at P. Wee's Saloon, now the Hard Rock, 315 Beale)—was a haven for raucous revels in the first half of the 20th century. After falling on decades of disrepair, Beale was semi-restored in the '90s and is now again a site for (controlled) bad behavior, with any number of places to eat, drink and hear music (we like the Blues City Café, 138 Beale). The New Daisy and Orpheum theatres both have regular shows. Also required is a trip to A. Schwab's department store (163 Beale; "If you can't find it at A. Schwab's, you're better off without it."), the only continuously-run business on Beale since 1876 (!), and a truly unique experience (yes, Elvis really did shop here, and so did everyone else). The small W.C. Handy park on Beale also regularly features free performances by world-class musicians, both known and unknown. Tour Handy's actual home at 352 Beale.
Recommended: Lansky Bros. www.lanskybros.com. Originally located at 126 Beale (since 1946), Lansky's clothing store is where Elvis bought the flashy threads that at the time few white men would have been caught dead wearing. The Jewish tailors remained on Beale until 1990, then decamped to the lobby of the Peabody, where their shop now contains almost as much memorabilia as a Hard Rock Café (including an Elvis jumpsuit that was left with them for repair at the time of his death). Many other Memphis greats have been clothed by the Lanskys too.
Recommended: Peabody Hotel 149 Union Ave. www.peabodymemphis.com. Literally the heart of Memphis, the historic, elegant Peabody is a world-class AAA four-diamond hotel. One of its unique treasures are the Peabody Ducks, who march in and out of the lobby fountain twice daily. And the Peabody isn't lacking for musical heritage either: ask them about the time Ike Turner had to be arrested for refusing to pay his bill (they will swear they have no idea what you're talking about!) The small but pleasant Peabody Place mall is next door, if you are in need of a quick fix from Starbucks, Tower records, or Victoria's Secret.
Gibson Beale Street Factory: 145 Lt. George W. Lee Ave 901 543-0800 www.gibsonmemphis.com. Despite the new, fancy exterior, Gibson does in fact manufacture their famous Les Pauls, Thunderbirds and other classic axes right here. If you don't believe us, take the tour!
Memphis Rock N Soul Museum 191 Beale (at Fed Ex Forum) www.memphisrocknsoul.org (901) 205-2533. A great introduction for those not already well versed, this is a Smithsonian-curated exhibition of Memphis music history from the blues to today.
The Center for Southern Folklore, 119 S. Main St (901) 525-3655 www.southernfolklore.com.Regularly features folk art and vintage photography exhibits featuring Memphis musicians (who also perform at the Center regularly—for FREE!)
Ghost hunting: Hotel Chisca 272 South Main. Opened in 1913 as a health resort (advertising Turkish baths and Battle Creek style treatments), the world-class Chisca was later notable as the home of WHBQ radio, particularly the legendary DJ Dewey Phillips' wild rock-n-roll "Red Hot & Blue" broadcasts. This is where Phillips first played Elvis' "That's Alright" on the air, something like 16 times in a row. Vacant today, like many Memphis landmarks, the Chisca is threatened with demolition. Hopefully cooler heads will prevail.
Essential: Lorraine Motel/National Civil Rights Museum: 450 Mulberry St. www.civilrightsmuseum.org. The motel where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was staying when he was assassinated in 1968 (which was also a popular address for artists from Cab Calloway to Janis Joplin) has been appropriately turned into a museum dedicated to his struggle.
Hungry? Arcade Restaurant 540 South Main: 901 526 5757 www.arcaderestaurant.com. The oldest continuously operating restaurant in Memphis (since 1919). Elvis really ate here, both before and after he was famous. We recommend taking the Main street trolley here, for an added experience.
DOWNTOWN/NORTH
Ghost hunting: Barrister's 147 Jefferson Ave. (at 2nd). This bar (now closed) was once owned by Jerry Lee Lewis; in later years it became a raucous alternative spot, where Jeff Buckley work-shopped the songs he was recording when he died here.
Recommended: Lauderdale Courts: Elvis' teenage home. 185 Winchester (at 3rd street) #328. www.lauderdalecourts.com. Most people view Graceland as Elvis' official Memphis address. But Elvis' crucial formative years (1949-53) were spent in this working class housing development downtown. Today, the Presley address has been restored to early '50s decor, and during the week of his birthday and anniversary of his death, it's open for tours. The rest of the year, it's available for overnight stays—Ouija board optional (the remainder of the development has been refurbished as the Uptown Square residences).
Bonus points: Humes high school 659 North Manassas. Where Elvis completed his formal education. Other Presley family addresses in the early '50s were 698 Saffarans (Uptown) and then 462 Alabama St (across from Lauderdale Courts).
Recommended: Poplar Tunes 308 Poplar Ave. (at Danny Thomas Blvd.) (901) 525-6348. Founded by Joe Cuoghi (who later started the Hi record label), Poplar is not necessarily the "destination" for record shopping it once was, but nevertheless worth a stop because it was Elvis' favorite record shop as a teen, and where he and many other Memphis musicians later did their first meet-and-greets with fans. Today it's also one of the few remaining distributors of jukebox 45s, where you can still find current hits on 7" vinyl.
Ghost hunting: American Recording Studio 827 Thomas St. (at Chelsea). The only Memphis studio which truly ever rivaled Stax or Sun for importance, American—founded by Memphis music legend "Chips" Moman—attracted Wilson Pickett, the Box Tops, Dusty Springfield, Neil Diamond, and yes, Elvis, who made some of his best post-Sun music here.
TOWARD MID-TOWN
Essential: Memphis Recording Service a/k/a Sun Studio 709 Union Ave. www.sunstudio.com. Where Sam C. Phillips not only recorded Elvis Presley (following Rufus Thomas, Howlin Wolf, Junior Parker and Ike Turner as previous Sun hitmakers) but also Carl Perkins, Jerry Lee Lewis, Johnnny Cash, Roy Orbison, Charlie Rich and many others.
Bonus points: Sam Phillips Recording Service 639 Madison Ave. (east of Marshall). Phillips built this second location in 1958 with the money he made from selling Elvis' contract. It was never as successful as the original location.
Thirsty?: The Buccaneer 1368 Monroe Ave, (901) 278-0909. A cozy, friendly locals bar which frequently features live acts in the back room.
Ghost hunting: Taliesyn Ballroom: 1447 Union Ave. (now a Taco Bell). The Sex Pistols played their second-ever US gig here on January 6, 1978 (the weekend of Elvis' first post-mortem birthday), to one of their most receptive audiences of the chaotic tour.
Ghost hunting: Antenna Club: 1588 Madison (at Avalon, northwest corner). The punk club that Tav Falco called home; R.E.M. played one of their earliest shows here.
Recommended: Shangri-La Records: 1916 Madison Ave. (901) 274-1916 www.shangrila.com. The best record store in town for old, new, vinyl, CD, anything and everything. If they don't have it, you truly are better off without it.
Hungry/Thirsty? Hi-Tone Café 1913 Poplar Ave. (901) 278-8663. Another bar frequently featuring live local music.
Recommended: Overton Park band shell: Poplar Ave., west of East Parkway. Where many a Memphis musician played a first or important early show, including, yes, Elvis.
Drive By: Ardent Studios 2000 Madison Ave (901) 725-0855 www.ardentstudios.com. Virtually the only continually operating Memphis recording studio which connects the classic era to today, Ardent has hosted everyone from Stax sessions, to Big Star, Led Zeppelin, the White Stripes, Bob Dylan, Black Rob, Juvenile, and many many more.
Bonus points: original Ardent location, 1457 National Street
Ghost hunting: Johnny Cash '50s residence: 2553 Tutwiler Ave. (2 blocks North of Summer Ave at N. Bingham St)
Recommended: Wild Bill's Social Club 1580 Vollentine Ave (901) 726-5473. A locals-beloved juke joint.
Ghost hunting: Meteor Records 1794 Chelsea Ave. (at No. McLean Blvd). One of Sun's few serious local competitors in '50s blues and rockabilly—run by Lester Bihari, initially a talent scout for his brothers' LA-based Modern and RPM labels—Meteor released music by ELMORE JAMES, Little Milton, Rufus Thomas and Charlie Feathers among others.
EAST SIDE
Recommended: Memphis Drum Shop 878 S. Cooper (901)276 2328. Though a musician's town like Memphis is naturally studded with instrument stores, this one deserves special notice because of its "Vault"—a room containing many famous players' kits and bits, as well as their frequent clinics featuring world-class players.
Recommended: Goner Records: 2152 Young Ave. (at Cooper) (901) 722-0095 www.goner-records.com. THE hip record store in Memphis, with regular free in-store performances.
Ghost hunting: Easley Recording (formerly Onyx/American East) 2272 Deadrick. A focal point of the '90s Memphis music revival, the Easleys' studio tragically burned down in April 2005.
Ghost hunting: Bitter Lemon Coffee House 2847 Poplar Ave. In the early '60s folk-roots revival era, this address (now a Vespa scooter dealership) was a hangout for the college crowd including Jim Dickinson and Sid Selvedge, who saw the likes of MISSISSIPPI FRED MCDOWELL perform.
SOUTH SIDE
Drive By: Royal Recording Studio 1320 South Lauderdale (now Willie Mitchell Blvd). Originally the house studio of Hi Records, and still overseen by legendary producer Willie Mitchell.
Ghost hunting: C.L. Franklin residence 406 Lucy Ave. Where Aretha was born, before the family relocated to Detroit.
Essential: Stax Museum of American Soul Music, 926 E. McLemore Ave. (at College) (901) 942 SOUL www.soulsvilleusa.com. We could go on forever in praise of this amazing duplication of the original Stax studio, on the orignal site—with a connected musical magnet school. Suffice to say, if you don't visit this tribute to the place where Booker T & the MGs made musical history with Sam and Dave, Wilson Pickett, Otis Redding, Albert King, Carla and Rufus Thomas, Eddie Floyd, and so many more, then you really haven't visited Memphis at all! (Their gift shop also features one of the best selections of Rhino releases you're likely to see anywhere. Thanks guys!)
Recommended: Full Gospel Tabernacle 787 Hale Rd (901) 396-9192. The independent evangelical church founded by the Reverend Al Green, who still preaches when in town, and even performs marriages for the truly dedicated, believing fans.
Bonus points: JW Brown residence, 4908 East Shore Dr. Where Jerry Lee Lewis first met cousin Myra Brown in 1956.
Essential: Graceland 3734 Elvis Presley Blvd. (901) 332-3322 www.elvis.com. Although the wealth of places to see in Memphis might make you think otherwise, a musical trip here really wouldn't be complete without a stop at Graceland, Elvis Presley's world-renowned home, just outside of town.
HOT BBQ!
Even though this is a strictly music-oriented tour, hey, ya gotta eat. And Memphis being the pork consumption capital of the country (true!), nothing goes better with some good grooves than hot barbecue. Here are our five favorites around town:
Cozy Corner 645 North Parkway (901) 527-9158If you can only make one BBQ stop, this is the one worth the trip. Ribs, hot links, pulled pork shoulder, Cornish hens, and service (no lie) with a smile.
Charlie Vergos' Rendesvous 52 S. 2nd St. (via alleyway) (901) 523-2746 www.hogsfly.com. Centrally located, but tricky to find at first, the Rendezvous (since 1948) is another Memphis BBQ top draw, though their meat is not traditional Memphis style (it comes dry-rubbed). Try the lamb ribs!
Leonard's Barbecue Downtown 103 N. Main St (901) 528-0875 www.leonardsbbqdowntown.com. A Memphis pit barbecue powerhouse since 1922. They must be doing something right!
Payne's 1762 Lamar (901) 272-1523. This locals' love is no frills (bus stations have more character!) but also no attitude, and seriously sweet-hot eating.
Jim Neely's Interstate BBQ, Memphis International Airport. An outpost of a local small chain, this is a great "last resort" on your way home. Not only some of the best airport food you'll ever experience, but the pulled pork dinner is also one of the best deals!
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